So, in order to maintain my super blogging streak (because I know, better than others, that the best bloggers are bloggers that blog everyday. I'm trying..Lord am I trying...just too busy today to do anything but this.)
With that in mind, I also know you all like innards of gowns. Real innards, like what really went on in an 18th century gown. Well, I do know what went on, in some gowns (every gown is different...I really want to make a Margaret Cho reference, but I'm stopping myself...if you know the joke please say it aloud or in your head and have a laugh). But for the most part, there are some standards to expect in a 18th century gown....and these things, my friends, make your sewing life easier. I swear.
1st: Raw edges. For various reasons (extra volume, quick breakdown process of the gown to remake into a new...off the top of my head) women's clothing had a lot of raw edges inside their clothing. For the most part, where the sleeves and shoulders meet (quicker breakdown and also how garments were constructed would make it a bit tricky to finish that seam as far as I can fathom...I could be wrong, it could be easy enough, but I'm not going to bother) and where the skirt attaches (quicker breakdown and the extra fabric left, when folded down, helps kick out the skirt for extra volume. Plus, there's a lot of fabric there, and if you cut it off it would be useless, so it's also not wasting fabric.
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| The guts in all the raw edged glory |
2nd: The sleeves are not what you think they are. You top stitch the top section that is attached to the shoulder strap.
On the inside, there are 2 rows of back stitching that account for the under bits. Why? I don't actually know. My guess is appearance and mobility. Don't quote me.
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| Sorry it's not that clear, my bad. |
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| Topped stitching. I hate puffy sleeves, and so I saw a gown in the Liverpool Collection that had this type of topstitching. I'm a fan. |
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3rd: Hard to see, but brilliant stitching connecting the quarter back gown. When B&I went to the Liverpool collection we saw many quarter back gowns with this unique whip-type stitch connecting the 4 pieces. It's been written about
here. (Also, B wrote about another red silk gown of hers before she went off and did her own blog. Read that one
here.) B was the one that did the sewing, not me, for the quarter back of the gown. We were sewing fools that week in England...on the train...in London...in Liverpool's Borders (not kidding).
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| These were the biggest stitches I could find (holy cow B!) and also you can see the white stitches that hold in the spiral boning |
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| Upside down shot of side & side back |
4th: Pretty quarter backs. The name explains it best. 4 pieces make up the back. Further into the 1780s and early 90s the points became very sharp, which made for a gorgeous back. B & I didn't end up doing that extreme of a point, but she still draped a beautiful back with a nice point. I'm a bit of a fan of quarter back. I pleated the skirts and then slipped stitched them to the bodice. This is so the fabric lays better than if you were to back stitch them, or any other method. Also, the front bodice is attached to the back with the silk being topped stitched and the lining being slipped stitched.
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| Wide shot of back |
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| A clear shot of the point, 4 back pieces, and the topped stitching. Also note where the shoulder straps are. |
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| Top stitched bodice to back |
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| Slip stitched skirt to bodice |
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| Shoulder strap. Topped stitched. With some hair powder. |
5th: All a zone is, is a normal center-front pinned, with the arch cut out into a shape that is flattering to your figure. Make sure you get the angle near the skirt right so you'll be happy with the shape. There's no right or wrong way to get this shape. Just make sure it's flattering to
you. To attach, top stitch (surprised?) neatly...or not, depending on if you cover it up in trim.
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| Wrinkley front |
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| Best shop I could get of the 2 pieces. |
Anyways, I hope this was...mildly interesting... at least there's pictures...
right?
Right?
Tomorrow, I'm going to be a good girl and sew...
maybe.
